SIX THINGS TO EXPECT WHEN RIDING IN ICELAND
Photos by linaimages.com
Riding in Iceland is many people’s peak riding experience. It’s not uncommon for guests to repeat rides here each year rather than try new locations. We get it. The horses have big personalities and smooth gaits for an easy ride. The country has so many different landscapes in such a small area and is set up for horses with long unbroken off-road trails. The people are warm and welcoming.
It’s a horse lovers paradise.
Here’s what you should know before you go.
1) THE HORSES ARE POWERFUL AND SPORTY
Far from feeling like ponies, the horses are strong, fit, and forward. You will not feel too big for your horse. The breed has an ambling gait, the tölt, which makes for a smooth and comfortable fast pace. Not all horses tölt though and if you get one that doesn’t be prepared for long extended bouts of sitting trot (you don’t typically post to the trot here).
You will likely ride at least two horses, sometimes changing in the course of a day, because the pace is so fast. You will repeat your horses and get the chance to bond with them. The horses are very sweet here, the golden-retrievers of horse breeds. It’s so special to see them bonded in their friendship groups within the herd, always travelling together.
Loose Horses
Most tours offer the chance to ride with loose horses but not all do. If riding with loose horses the pace will be quick - you’ll spend most of your time at tolt and trot. Usually you will have a lead guide whom all the riders stay behind, and you’ll have a horse guide that is focused on keeping the loose horses just behind the lead guide. It is very important that you do not ride ahead of the lead guide. You’ll be forgiven if you have a very strong, excited horse that you’re actively trying to control. If you take off in front of the lead guide repeatedly expect to forcibly put back in your place. The lead guide is responsible for keeping everyone together at working pace.
The horses in Iceland are taught how to travel across country in herds by the older horses. Youngsters of between 4 and 7 years old run free, learning the route, how to be brave crossing rivers and how to handle uneven terrain. At age 8 they are ready to carry their first guests. The horses tend to age out of working life much later than other breeds and lead horses can still be in their prime at 18 years old. Around 20 the horses are retired to live in the fields but still watch closely with ears pricked as they see the herds leaving to the highlands without them.
CHECK BEFORE YOU GO:
Ride with horse owners: Does the operator you are riding with lease or own their horses? If they own their own horses they will be much better placed to match you with the right horse for your experience and personality. It’s a huge commitment to run a breeding programme and feed a herd of 60+ horses all through the winter but those that do like Hekluhestar have a positive impact on your holiday.
Ride with locals: Is the ride owner operated or do they work with seasonal guides? There are many incredible riding guides working in Iceland but riding with a local who can share the history of the place will deepen and enrich your experience.
2) GROUP SIZES ARE LARGER THAN USUAL
The typical group size in Iceland is much larger than what you are probably used to from other riding safaris. Nine would be considered small here, with the average size ranging from 10-15 and groups going up to as many as 20+ riders.
Things aren’t as chaotic and crowded as you might think as these are definitely NOT nose-to-tail rides and you tend to stretch out over some distance giving you space and freedom The group tends to form little bunches of similar paced horses. If you’re an experienced rider and request a quick horse you will likely be surrounded by other riders of a similar capability. Riding with all those loose horses makes the riding more intimate even with more riders than usual.
Large groups gives a higher risk of riding with people that have exaggerated their ability. While most tour providers require at least intermediate level of riding though it’s almost impossible to police this ahead of time.
CHECK BEFORE YOU GO:
Check the riding level requirements: Avoid the disappointment of riding with under-qualified or even beginner riders by checking the riding ability requirements before you arrive. On a Black Saddle exclusive ride we vet for experienced riders only.
Try to limit the group size: Smaller groups are always ideal. You get more one-on-one time with the guide and learn more about the place you’re riding through. There is a greater feeling of camaraderie, and instead of many small talk conversations you can get deeper with a smaller group. 15 riders in Iceland is very acceptable. You don’t want to be riding with 20+ unless it’s a one-off event like a sheep round-up or a cross country cavalcade.
3) ACCOMMODATION IS OFTEN IN SHARED ROOMS WITH BUNK BEDS
Most of the accommodation on Icelandic highland riding tours is in shared mountain lodges with everyone in bunk beds in one or two rooms. The huts are charming. They allow you to ride in incredibly remote places. You’ll certainly feel grateful for your lovely mattress and warm room when you spot braver souls setting up their tents outside. The kitchen and dining table is attached to the same room. Until recently many huts did not have showers. Things have improved now and hot water is more readily available - but not always. Bunk beds often have double mattresses laid next to each other so that you sleep in rows of eight.
There is not much privacy at all. If you are a sound sleeper you might enjoy the rugged, remote and authentic way of living here. These are the huts the locals use themselves when they herd the sheep down from the highlands each year. If you’re a light sleeper you might struggle and we definitely recommend bringing noise cancelling headphones and sleeping pills to help you nod off.
If you have a chronic snoring problem we suggest you choose a trail that has hotel accommodation. It will be hard to bond with your fellow riders if you have kept them up all night.
If you’re looking for a tour with more comfortable accommodation try a farm based tour in Snæfellsnes or the North of Iceland.
CHECK BEFORE YOU GO:
What is the accommodation situation? If the description is ‘sleeping bag accommodation’ you will likely be in one or two shared rooms. Ask yourself if this is the right trip for you knowing your own comfort levels. We have a tour that has just one night shared at the spacious Hekluhestar grass roofed lodge, the rest are spent in twin rooms at country hotels. You can read about the Lupine Trail here.
Bring a good sleeping bag: Even in summer under the midnight sun you might still feel the cold in Iceland. Make sure you pack a sleeping bag that will keep you warm at 5 degrees celcius as a minimum. A silk sleeping bag liner will add a layer of cleanliness and a bit of extra warmth too. Your sleeping bag and your luggage will be transported for you so you don’t need to worry about it packing down to a very small size - though it helps.
Bring headphones: If you’re not bothered by close sleeping quarters, or if you are but the experience is worth it, we highly recommend these music cozy headband headphones. They allow you to lie flat and fall asleep listening to podcasts / music / white noise and they’re very well priced at less than £20. You can even wear them on horseback under your helmet. This version acts as an eye mask too.
Afangagil
Landmannahellir
Rjupnavellir
Hekluhestar
4) CELL RECEPTION IS NON-EXISTENT
High up in the highlands you won’t get phone reception. It might come in drips and drabs intermittently but you should plan not to have access to the internet while you’re in remote locations. Mountain huts rarely have wifi. If you’re waiting for important news it might be possible to ask the camp office to connect to their wifi if you are really stuck, or your guide might direct you to the top of a hill where it’s been known to have some signal, but it doesn’t always work.
The other thing to consider is that in cold temperatures your phone and camera battery will drain much faster. With so many people in one mountain cabin there are only limited plugs so we recommend you take a very good power bank. This one will charge your iPhone four times. This bohemouth will charge your phone and even your laptop.
CHECK BEFORE YOU GO:
Sim Cards:
This website is shows the network reach by country. In Iceland the winner appears to be Siminn.
Buy a sim at the airport: Upon arrival you can buy an Iceland sim card at Keflavik Airport in Reykjavik. There aren’t any mobile internet stores, but the at the 24 hour convenience store they sell Iceland sim cards for tourists. As soon as you walk out of the Arrivals door on your right hand side you will see a lime green convenient store. They offer prepaid Iceland sim cards from Vodafone, Siminn and Nova. Ask the person behind they counter what they recommend. The locals advice is always best!
Buy an e-Sim before you arrive: Most new smartphones are equipped with the technology to use e-sim cards. You order online, receive a code, simply follow the instructions and you are good to go. Here are the best e-sim card deals for Iceland:
1 GB for 7 days = $4.5 USD
3 GB for 30 days = $9 USD
5 GB for 30 days = $13 USD
These e-sim cards are data-only and calls are not supported. Click here to order an e-sim card for Iceland directly online.
5) WEATHER COMES IN ‘EXAMPLES’
The joke goes that there is no bad weather in Iceland, only ‘weather examples’. You might wake up in the morning to blue skies only to have a storm roll in an hour later and roll out again shortly after that. Icelandic summers are very short with the best time of year being the month of July. The leaves are already starting to turn brown in August.
We advise you prepare for the worst weather and enjoy being pleasantly surprised when good weather arrives. We rode for seven days in June 2022 and barely had any rain but anything could happen.
Your outfitter will provide industrial wet weather gear if things are forecast to get wet. This usually takes the form of a bright highlighter orange jumpsuit. If you’re riding in the summer months (late June to early August) you should be able to avoid the jumpsuit and wear your own wet weather gear.
If you want to ride when the purple lupine flowers are in full bloom it’s best to arrive between late-May and July. We have a special Lupine Itinerary designed to make the most of the incredible purple meadows.
PREPARE BEFORE YOU GO:
Pack for wet weather: Bring a high quality wind and rain shell jacket. The key to staying comfortable is layering so that you can ride in a t-shirt when the sun is shining and pack on the layers when the clouds roll in.
We recommend you pack natural fibre clothing in natural colours. Cotton t-shirts, woolen vests, merino long sleeve tops, down jackets, woolen jumpers, a buff, jockey goggles (for protection from kicked up sand), woolen long-johns that double as pyjamas, mutiple pairs of woolen socks, waterproof hiking boots and half chaps - be aware that thick boots might have trouble fitting into stirrups, soft shoes for off the horse. You can read our guide on What to Pack here.
6) THE FOOD IS INCREDIBLE
We could rave about the food! Typically on trail you’ll enjoy wholesome, farm-style food with high quality local ingredients and a lot of selection. Fish and lamb have been the staple proteins in Iceland since the time of the Vikings. Expect a lot of both in different forms but so much more too!
Breakfasts are standard cereals, porridge, toast, fruit and yogurt.
Lunches are usually picnics packed from the breakfast table and kept in your saddle bags until meal time. You make you own lunch from a range of breads, cold cuts, smoked salmon, spreads, sauces, cheeses, vegetables, fruit, biscuits, packets of crisps, juice boxes and slices of cake. You eat lunch picnic style while out on the trail. You will usually take long break and the saddles will come off of the horses. Support teams will be waiting with thermoses of cool drinking water and hot tea and coffee.
Evening meals are warm and hearty. When staying in highland accommodation you can expect huge vats of Kjötsúpa - meat and vegetable stew, incredible individual filets of steamed trout, farm-raised roast lamb, potatoes, fresh vegetables, rice. Desert can include cakes, pies, fruit and cream.
TRY WHILE YOU’RE THERE:
Hangikjöt - Icelandic smoked lamb: Hangikjöt, which means “hung meat” in Icelandic, is savoury smoked lamb. You might be served this at dinner one evening. It’s a celebratory food for special occasions like Christmas. You’ll likely be offered thin slices for your lunch sandwiches too.
Hákarl - Fermented shark: A traditional Icelandic dish made from the meat of the Greenland shark. It is typically consumed as a shot or served in small cubes as a snack. It has a strong, pungent smell and a distinctive, ammonia-like flavour. Some people describe the taste as similar to strong cheese or rotten meat. It is generally served accompanied by a shot of Brennivín, a traditional Icelandic schnapps.
Pylsur - Icelandic Hot dogs: Made from a mixture of lamb, pork, and beef, and served in a bun with various toppings such as mustard, ketchup, fried onions, and remoulade sauce. You can find hot dogs in every convenience store or head to the hot dog stand in Reykjavik famous for a visit from an American president.
