A GREAT ADVENTURE ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD
OVERVIEW
A rollicking adventure in the Hindu Kush mountains.
A unique insight into a truly wild and remote area of Pakistan; a region that very few people have had the chance to explore in depth. This itinerary has been curated to give our guests the opportunity to completely immerse themselves into the culture and wilderness of Northern Pakistan.
The trip showcases spectacular landscapes, imposing mountains and pristine lakes, and the charming local population. The ethos of these mountain communities is entirely based on hospitality; as the guides and locals warmly welcome guests, and will host you immaculately throughout the trip.
LET’S RIDE
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
Ride in the stunning Hundukush mountains
Visit the famous Shandur polo field at 12,500ft
Six day mobile tented safari
Stay at the Hindukush Heights Hotel hosted by Zainab Alam, a princess of the royal family of Chitral
Optional hunting with the Peshawar Vale Hounds
Tour Chitral Fort
Relax in a boutique hotel in Islamabad
OVERVIEW
RIDE GUIDE
Duration: 12 Days / 11 Nights / 6 Days Riding
Cost: £4,800
Operator: Bertie Alexander
Max Riders: 12
Min Riders: 6
Age: Most of our riders are aged 28+. We don’t accept children or teenagers on our rides.
Departing: To and from Islamabad Airport
Riding Level: Advanced. Many years riding with a natural seat.
Weight Limit: Maximum of 90kg/198lbs/14.2 stone. You must be very fit.
Time in the saddle: 2 to 7 hours a day
HORSES
This is a ride for life-long advanced riders and intrepid travellers. The terrain is complex, uneven and requires some time walking on foot on scree in the steepest parts.
The horses being ridden are predominantly local polo ponies, hired from the local players that reside and play in these mountain villages. Polo is treated as a religion in these Northern areas, and these ponies are cherished by their owners.
As they are kept for sport they can be highly strung and so take a calm, knowledgeable rider.
This is a great one for hunters, eventers and cowboys.
ACCOMMODATION
Your stay will be spent in a mixture of private accommodation, hotels, tents and mountain chalets.
When staying at the Hindukush Heights hotel you will be sharing rooms, unless you specifically request an individual room with a supplementary charge of £180 for three nights.
Nights 1, 9 + 10** are spent at the Hindukush Heights Hotel where you will be hosted by the Royal Family who is partnering with Bertie to organise our tour.
Night 2 + 3 are spent in large, stand up tents
Nights 4, 5 and 8 are spent at Mastuj Fort in cabins
Night 6 + 7 are spent in simple dome tents
Night 11 is spent at 108 Hotel, a small luxury hotel in Islamabad
** Night 10 you may also choose to spend the night camping near the hounds in a simple dome tent
WHAT'S INCLUDED
All meals, shared accommodation, horses, guides, road transfers, entry for landmark sights, drinks and surprise entertainment.
WHAT’S EXCLUDED
The price does not include international or domestic flights, mandatory travel insurance, or staff tips (which are optional but appreciated).
We suggest a tip of £15 - £25 a day paid directly to your guide at the end of your holiday.
RIDING
It is recommended for the ‘advanced rider’, owing to the terrain and horses we use. The horses being ridden are predominantly local polo ponies, hired from the local players that reside and play in these mountain villages. Polo is treated as a religion in these Northern areas, and these ponies are cherished by their owners.
Not suitable for beginner or intermediate riders or those that exclusively ride in arenas / schools.
TRAVEL & VISAS
You will require a visa based on an invitation letter. We will share instructions on how to obtain your visa with your booking confirmation.
GETTING THERE
Recommended Flights
Direct: 19th of May with two nights at an Islamabad hotel on your own account, or
Arriving before 7:30am to Islamabad through Doha or Dubai on the 21st
Sat 1st June Islamabad 07:55 direct to London Gatwick landing 13:15 the same day
MEALS
Meals are mostly catered by Zainab’s team at the hotel.
Vegetarians can be catered for. This ride isn’t suitable for those with allergies as the menu is restricted in the mountains.
WHAT TO PACK
Refer to our FAQ for what to pack on a horse riding holiday.
Riding hats are not provided, please bring your own.
A full packing list will be shared in the group whatsapp well ahead of departure.
INTERNET
There is good cell reception on all parts of the ride. Download an e-sim from Airalo and install before you arrive to be connected at all times.
Use our code BLACKS3976 to receive $3 off your e-sim credit.
DEPARTURE DATES
This is a pioneer ride. You must be an excellent rider, able to go with the flow, physically fit and fun to be around as we test this ride for the first time.
21 May - 1 June: £4,800 per person for 12 days.
Fill in an obligation-free Rider Form with your preferred dates and we will get back to you with availability.
ITINERARY
This itinerary is intended as a guide only. Your hosts may change the itinerary to take advantage of weather conditions.
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Upon landing in Islamabad, Bertie will meet guests at arrivals and the drive to Chitral will begin. The full drive will be approximately 9 hours, with views of amazing scenery providing a real sense of adventure.
The journey north is a beautiful drive with a particularly dramatic final sector on amazing mountain roads, with various opportunities to stop and see things on route. You shall also enjoy a leisurely lunch north of the Lowari Pass to break the journey.
On arrival at Chitral, you will be shown to your accommodation at the renowned Hindukush Heights Hotel and have a relaxed evening with dinner and drinks.
No Riding Today. 9 Hours of Driving.
Overnight at the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel
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After an easy start and breakfast at the hotel, a tailor will visit to take measurements for those guests that wish to have any local clothing made. Cars will be loaded shortly after and the 2.5 hour drive to Riri Ovir (a small mountain village) will begin. Here the polo ponies will be tried and tested to zap any naughty energy from them, till you are content with your chosen mount.
As we begin the great ride into the Hindukush, we will head towards our first camp at Lone Ghari, with lunch at a local house along the way. The evening will be enjoyed campfire style. For this section of the ride, there will be large stand-up tents with beds and bedding.
5 Hours Riding. 2.5 Hours Driving.
Overnight in stand-up tents
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After breakfast at the campsite, the ride to the second camp at Xamouch will begin, with lunch en route.
There will be time to watch a Freestyle Polo Match, and if you wish there will be an opportunity to join in.
A long day of riding through remote areas and mountain villages, will lead us into a cozy camp for drinks and dinner.
6+ Hours Riding
Overnight in stand-up tents
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A breathtakingly beautiful ride to Qaqlaasht, a large open mountain top plateau. A chance for the horses and riders to kick on and gallop across the wild and open space.
Lunch will be enjoyed en-route.
Following our farewells to our mounts and their attendants for the first section of the ride, a majestic 2 hour drive along the Mastuj River will take us to our accommodation at Mastuj Fort.
Rustic wooden mountain huts within the walnut and apricot orchard of the old Fort, will welcome us with hot showers.
Drinks and dinner to be enjoyed before a good night’s rest.
5+ Hours Riding. 2 Hours Driving.
Overnight at Mastuj Fort
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This is a rest day in peaceful Mastuj. Leisure activities include swimming and walking around the breathtakingly magical mountain village.
For your guide, Bertie, this is a personal favourite of all the northern areas.
No Riding Today.
Overnight at Mastuj Fort
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A two-hour drive to Laspur village to meet the second group of horses and begin our climb up to the Shandur Pass, famously known as “the rooftop of the world.” Shandur stands at 12,500ft above sea level and boasts the highest polo field in the world, used for an annual tournament between the two great rivals Chitral and Gilgit. Enjoy a spirited gallop across the pass between the glacial lakes, hit a ball around the famous field; before reaching camp located high on the pass, where the night will be spent.
As the temperature drops quickly in this area, it is important that warm layers are handy to wrap up in for the cooler evenings.
For this half of the ride, there will be small camping tents with floor mattresses and sleeping bags, as they are better suited to the windy conditions. It is required for each guest to bring along their own sleeping bag for this section of the trip.
4 Hours Riding. 2 Hours driving.
Overnight in simple dome tents
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The ride to camp three will begin on the other side of Shandur towards Gilgit, and onto the start of the treacherous Chumarkhun Pass.
You will encounter spectacular glacial streams, while riding through magical mountain villages.
6 Hours Riding
Overnight in simple dome tents
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The ride will begin with the descent down the Chumarkhun pass. This is a tricky route that requires a decent level of fitness as one must dismount and walk for a considerable section of the route, scrambling over rocks and boulders, navigating narrow mountain paths with your pony in tow.
Once over the Pass, it is a relaxed ride through various mountain villages back to Mastuj to freshen up in the comfy chalets and enjoy a thoroughly well-deserved evening of drinks and dinner within the Fort, celebrating the completion of a great expedition.
6 Hours Riding
Overnight at Mastuj Fort
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A relaxed breakfast in the serene Mastuj orchard before the drive back to Chitral.
Lunch will be enjoyed at Tooshi, a royal hunting lodge and currently used as the kennels for the Peshawar Vale Hounds.
The afternoon is action packed with ferociously exciting games of Buzkashi and freestyle polo.
Guests are welcome to spectate or have a go in participating. This will take place in Dolomutz overlooking the valley, with post-match tea before heading back to the hotel.
No Riding Today
Overnight at the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel
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A chance to explore Chitral town with an insightful tour of the famous fort, which holds the history of where the Great Siege of Chitral of 1895 took place.
The afternoon can be spent relaxing at the hotel, with a beautiful outdoor pool area available to be enjoyed.
The evening begins with a walk up the mountain above Chitral.
A special dinner will be held in a mountain bothy looking down over the town.
No Riding Today
Overnight at the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel
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Breakfast at the hotel before the drive back to Islamabad.
An early evening shopping trip, boasting a selection of splendid house furnishings. The final night will be spent at the 108 boutique hotel.
No Riding Today
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You will be transferred to the airport around 5:30am to make the 7:55am flight direct to Gatwick.
FAQ
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Not at all, both polo and hunting is optional and you can choose how involved you get.
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Yes it's totally optional. We will ask in your rider form if you would like to participate and if not, we will arrange other riding for you. You can play. beach polo or go hacking.
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You will spend most of your time in rural Chitral, far away from the border zone with Afghanistan where there can be trouble.
For extra reassurance we recommend you check the travel advice from your country's foreign office. You can see the UK's advice here. There is no restriction on travel to Punjab.
This ride is best suited to those that love to travel off the beaten path. If you're not sure you are up for it Kyrgyzstan is a very easy introduction to the Stans.
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Our safaris line up with the weekly direct flight from London Heathrow to Islamabad. If you are arriving from elsewhere you will usually bounce through Dubai, Doha or Jordan.
Qatar and Emirates both have regular flights to Pakistan.
We create WhatsApp groups for our safaris so guests can align travel plans before the rides.
PAKISTAN
Currency + cash: bring GBP or USD for tips or to exchange locally to spend at the markets
Time Zone: Pakistani Time - GMT +5
Climate: The weather in these mountain areas is incredibly unpredictable and changes quickly. The first half of our trip is likely to be warm and sunny during the day 20°C – 25 °C with temperatures dropping to around 10°C in the evenings.
The second half of the ride where we are at higher altitudes temperatures will be much lower with potential of even some snow on the ground. Here temperatures are around 10°C in the day and into the low minuses at night and in the evenings.
Attire: Pakistan is a muslim country, so care should be taken to dress respectfully by wearing loose fitting clothing and keeping hair and shoulders covered in public places. Ladies should avoid wearing ‘clingy, tight or suggestive’ attire, and will sometimes need to cover their hair. There is no need to bring your hunting attire from home, better to dress as the locals do.
PRICES & AVAILABILITY
This is a pioneer ride. You must be an excellent rider, able to go with the flow, physically fit and fun to be around as we test this ride for the first time.
21 May - 1 June: £4,800 per person for 10 nights.
Fill in an obligation-free Rider Form with your preferred dates and we will get back to you with availability.
HOW TO BOOK
Saddles are reserved with a 20% deposit. The balance is due 90 days before departure.
Cancellation Terms
More than 90 days in advance the full deposit is returned net of bank charges and a £250 cancellation fee per rider to cover our time spent organising your holiday.
90 - 61 days in advance the deposit or 50% of the full amount is forfeited.
60 – 0 days in advance 100% of the full amount is forfeited.
MEET YOUR GUIDES
BERTIE ALEXANDER
Bertie, a keen horseman and adventurer from England has been residing in Pakistan for much of the last three years, exploring the length and breadth of the country.
He has spent much of his time here reestablishing the famous Peshawar Vale hunt, importing hounds from various UK packs and establishing kennels and hunt country in several locations across Pakistan for mounted hunting.
In addition to the North, Bertie also hosts riding holidays further south, near Lahore throughout the cooler months. He is always eager to discover new and unique experiences in Pakistan to take his clients.
ZAINAB + QUBILAI
Zainab is a Princess of the Royal Family of Chitral; the Great Granddaughter of His Highness Sir Shuja Ulmulk and a direct descendant of Muhataram Shah Katur, the founder of the Katur Dynasty of Chitral in the early 1700’s. She attended the Rodean School in Brighton, England and continued her studies at the National College of Arts in Lahore with a degree in Graphic Design.
Qubilai attended Boston University in the United States, after which he embarked on a 20-year career as a full- time polo professional travelling the world. He represented the Pakistan Polo Team, leading the national side as Captain for 12 years. Zainab and Qubilai have been married for 27 years. Their teamwork and similar passions have created a focus on promoting the beauty and enchantment of Chitral; they have done a magnificent job of capturing this in their award-winning hotel.
ACCOMMODATION
HINDUKUSH HEIGHTS HOTEL
Owned by the local royal family, and nestled high in the breathtaking Chitral Valley, the Hindukush Heights Hotel combines serene luxury with warm, family-run hospitality.
Offering panoramic mountain views, organic cuisine, and eco-friendly practices, it’s the perfect base for an adventure packed safari.
MASTUJ FORT
Hindukush Heights’hotel outpost in scenic Mastuj boasts six individual wooden chalets in a rustic alpine style, located in the grounds of the UlMulk family’s 300 year old ancestral fort.
The Mastuj Fort was built in 1780 on a plateau at the confluence of the Yarkhun and Mastuj rivers. Mastuj is a four hour drive through scenic countryside from Chitral town, and just a two hour drive from the famous Shandur pass.
LARGE TENTED CAMP
Two nights are spent in large, stand up tents.
SMALL TENTED CAMP
Two nights are spent in simple dome tents.
CHITRAL
Historically ruled by the Ul-Mulk / Katoor dynasty, Chitral was a princely state until its integration into Pakistan in 1947. The name Katoor is an ancient one and has been in use long before the ancestor of the Katoors settled in Chitral in 1520. According to one theory, Katoor was a Kushan title of nobility. Katoor also means dragon in the archaic Bashgali dialect of Kohistani. Ul-Mulk can be translated to “the King”.
Its unique culture reflects influences from South Asia, Central Asia, and Persia, with traditions such as polo, music, and dance holding a special place in local life. The region is also home to the Kalash people, who maintain a polythiest pagan religion similar to Zoroastriansim, believed to be indiginous to the area.
Legends the Kalash are descended from Alexander the Great and his Macedon army. Some accounts from Alexander’s own Army describe how they were surprised to find blonde haired, blue eyed people in the mountains here.
Located at an important junction on the silk road, with one end of the valley linking to Afganistan’s Wakhand corridor, the area has always been an important trade route. The Mehter (king), of Chitral and the diplomatic class spoke a Persian dialect.
THE SIEGE OF CHITRAL
In 1895, when the great Mehter Aman Ul-Malk died, there was a bloody succession battler for the title. Brother killed brother for the throne until the British, who were stationed in nearby Gilgit, arrived with a small army to place Aman’s 12 year old son, Shuja, on the throne. A 48 day siege followed, with the British and their chosen Mehter only being liberated when reinforcement arrived and the Jandul Chief,Umara Khan, who was supporting Aman’s brother, Sher Afzul, fled.
A PLACE OF GREAT FACINATION
Chitral has long attracted great adventurer’s.
Winston Churchill visited Chitral as a second lieutenant shortly after the Siege of Chitral. His writings on these campaigns, including his experiences on the frontier, were published in his first book, The Story of the Malakand Field Force (1898).
Diana, Princess of Wales visited Chitral in 1991 during a tour of Pakistan. She was photographed in the scenic valley, wearing traditional Chitrali attire, which drew global media attention to the region’s beauty and culture.
Aga Khan IV, the spiritual leader of the Ismaili Muslim community, the Aga Khan has visited Chitral on multiple occasions. His development network has significantly contributed to the region, particularly in education and healthcare.
Rudyard Kipling wrote his short story “The Man that would be King” about the area most likely based on the The Kafirs of the Hindu Kush written by George Scott Robertson who was besieged in the Chitral Fort with his garrison.
